VISITING: The Dunes and Mountains of Oman
Katie Thomson journeys to the mountains and dunes of Oman to discover unrivalled landscapes and classic Arabian hospitality.
The name Oman is a particularly evocative one. It speaks of the shifting sands of dunes and deserts, the intricate mastery of wood carving, interiors bedecked in jewel-toned fabrics reflected in shining brasswork and of millennia-old traditions and classic Arabic hospitality. It is also a country of contrasts – high mountain passes with spectacular valleys and picture postcard famous backdrops of sand dunes.
You might not think mountains when you think of Oman, but the country has some of the most spectacular landscapes and vistas anywhere in the Middle East. Indeed, many nationals from the UAE or Saudi head to the Omani mountains for their holidays, preferring the milder climate in the summer months.
Sitting atop a peak in Jabel Al Akhdar is the Sahab Resort and Spa, the latest hotel offering from the Omani Al Nahda group. Known for their strong commitment to service and luxurious settings, this hotel seeks to offer a mountain getaway where guests can truly relax. The hotel is of course centred around the views – spectacular vistas of gorges, waterfalls and stone cut ridges. The designers have been keen to ground the hotel in its location through a series of careful touches – the million year-old fossils found in the valley are visible throughout all of the grounds and the local rosewater scents the halls.
Sahab offers 27 rooms in three different categories – Studio rooms, Suite rooms & Family Suites. The decor is influenced by rich Omani culture, equipped with all the modern amenities and offering a magnificent view of the Jabal Al Akhdar mountain range. It was special indeed to sip my morning coffee whilst gazing out across the vastness of the surroundings, watching as the sun stretched and touched each mountainous ridge in turn.
There are lots of excursion options from the hotel – some abseiling and mountain climbing for adrenaline-seekers, alongside more sedate tours of local villages, the rose garden or even star gazing. I opted for the village tour, taking in the local waterfall and getting a sense of the unique challenges of living in somewhere so remote.
After days of soaking up the endless views by the pool, it was time to move on to a more archetypal Middle Eastern experience in the sand dunes.
Mirage-like and utterly majestic, the Dunes by Al Nahda resort sits amongst the undulating sand dunes of Wadi Al Abyad. Only 40 minutes from Muscat, it’s a world away from city life, creating an authentic taste of the Omani experience. The hotel is made up of a series of static ivory one or two bedroom Bedouin tents, each luxuriously furnished with dark woods, richly patterned fabrics and ultra-comfortable beds. For a truly majestic stay, and this resort does host royalty, there are the Royal Suites. The size of almost four tents together, each is capacious at 139 square meters and equipped with separate bedrooms, a living room and a private patio.
Other than the opulent accommodation, what makes Dunes unique is the swimming pool – unlike many desert camps, Dunes is unique in having a spectacular infinity pool, with views stretching out for miles over undulating terrain. This immersion in the landscape is important, and it is emphasised at every opportunity – each tent enjoys similarly spectacular view of the dunes or the distant Al Hajar mountains, so, if like me you have a little jet lag, you can watch the sunrise over the sands from your bed!
The resort offers a whole host of amazing experiences – from riding on Abdul the resident camel, guided quad biking on the dunes and even a most spectacular Arabian feast served under the stars. Just as in Sahab, Dunes prides itself on an excellent menu of Indian and Omani dishes. These are served in the Fleur Restaurant, open on all sides to the panoramic mountain views. Fleur’s head chef is somewhat of a local celebrity, having won the Omani equivalent of MasterChef. He was also a part of Rick Stein’s series on India – showing the calibre of the cookery on offer.
It is clear with both resorts that the work is collaborative and dependent upon excellent staff. The chefs, both Indian, are adept and dexterous in the kitchen, creating different takes on classic Omani dishes and elevating them to fine dining – of course with some spice and curry flavours thrown in. The spas too are what the group are known for; Dr Mary Ann is one of those brought in at the conception of the hotel group, with the owners seeking out her health and wellbeing expertise to set up the medi-spa in the original Al Nadha Hotel. Her ethos and whole-body approach to wellbeing is echoed in each resort and she has designed a treatment menu for each that reflects its setting.
In Sahab, perched as it is high in the mountains, the signature scent is called ‘Clouds’ – an uplifting fragrance which pairs with the Signature massage. In Dunes, the scent is a more musky ‘Arabian Nights’ and the signature treatment is quite extraordinary. Called the ‘Sand Spa’, clients take to an open air treatment room are immersed in sand which has been heated by the sun. It is said that a sand bath provides relief for people suffering from a range of muscular disorders as well as helping to ease the symptoms and heal various skin conditions too – the gentle heat is also supremely relaxing, bringing a soothing warmth to the body without becoming overly hot. After the sand, which exfoliates the skin too, a moisturising coating of natural yoghurt is applied to the skin. Quite unique and almost elemental in its approach, this is a treatment unlike any you might find elsewhere.
Dr Mary, originally from Scotland, was certain she would return home after setting up the spas – but she fell in love with Oman and moved permanently. I asked her about her thoughts on the way the modern world is changing what is ostensibly a tradition-led country “the country is not virgin anymore, in the respect of technology and infrastructure, she is newly married though – growing a little, finding her way, experiencing new things and of course changing – but ultimately Oman is not so changed from its core and that is what makes it so magical.”
It is amazing that a country can have as peaceful an existence as this, often called upon to be the mediator of other political conflicts. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said plays a part in this prosperity, and his particular penchant for aesthetically pleasing architecture has seen Oman, and Muscat in particular, grow gracefully and with tradition at its heart – you won’t see the skyscrapers of Dubai here as all buildings are limited to four storeys. There are lots of excursions available from Dunes which take in some of the city’s best sights – you can meander through the nearby Matrah Souk or visit the city’s architectural gem – Sultan Qaboo’s Mosque. This mosque can accommodate over 7,000 worshippers inside it’s cool marble prayer rooms and at its heart it houses the most dazzling chandelier I have ever seen – all 8 tonnes of it.
I have travelled fairly extensively in the Middle East, but something about Oman really did capture my imagination. It offers so much to the traveller – world-class scenery, lots of cultural sights, and of course that wonderful Omani hospitality.
The Al Nahda Group too make the most of these elements, amplifying them in their hotels to give guests an authentic, but relaxing experience and surely fond memories of a holiday filled with adventure and discovery.
Other than the opulent accommodation, what makes Dunes unique is the swimming pool – unlike many desert camps, Dunes is unique in having a spectacular infinity pool, with views stretching out for miles over undulating terrain. This immersion in the landscape is important, and it is emphasised at every opportunity – each tent enjoys similarly spectacular view of the dunes or the distant Al Hajar mountains, so, if like me you have a little jet lag, you can watch the sunrise over the sands from your bed!
The resort offers a whole host of amazing experiences – from riding on Abdul the resident camel, guided quad biking on the dunes and even a most spectacular Arabian feast served under the stars. Just as in Sahab, Dunes prides itself on an excellent menu of Indian and Omani dishes. These are served in the Fleur Restaurant, open on all sides to the panoramic mountain views. Fleur’s head chef is somewhat of a local celebrity, having won the Omani equivalent of MasterChef. He was also a part of Rick Stein’s series on India – showing the calibre of the cookery on offer.
It is clear with both resorts that the work is collaborative and dependent upon excellent staff. The chefs, both Indian, are adept and dexterous in the kitchen, creating different takes on classic Omani dishes and elevating them to fine dining – of course with some spice and curry flavours thrown in. The spas too are what the group are known for; Dr Mary Ann is one of those brought in at the conception of the hotel group, with the owners seeking out her health and wellbeing expertise to set up the medi-spa in the original Al Nadha Hotel. Her ethos and whole-body approach to wellbeing is echoed in each resort and she has designed a treatment menu for each that reflects its setting.
In Sahab, perched as it is high in the mountains, the signature scent is called ‘Clouds’ – an uplifting fragrance which pairs with the Signature massage. In Dunes, the scent is a more musky ‘Arabian Nights’ and the signature treatment is quite extraordinary. Called the ‘Sand Spa’, clients take to an open air treatment room are immersed in sand which has been heated by the sun. It is said that a sand bath provides relief for people suffering from a range of muscular disorders as well as helping to ease the symptoms and heal various skin conditions too – the gentle heat is also supremely relaxing, bringing a soothing warmth to the body without becoming overly hot. After the sand, which exfoliates the skin too, a moisturising coating of natural yoghurt is applied to the skin. Quite unique and almost elemental in its approach, this is a treatment unlike any you might find elsewhere.
Dr Mary, originally from Scotland, was certain she would return home after setting up the spas – but she fell in love with Oman and moved permanently. I asked her about her thoughts on the way the modern world is changing what is ostensibly a tradition-led country “the country is not virgin anymore, in the respect of technology and infrastructure, she is newly married though – growing a little, finding her way, experiencing new things and of course changing – but ultimately Oman is not so changed from its core and that is what makes it so magical.”
It is amazing that a country can have as peaceful an existence as this, often called upon to be the mediator of other political conflicts. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said plays a part in this prosperity, and his particular penchant for aesthetically pleasing architecture has seen Oman, and Muscat in particular, grow gracefully and with tradition at its heart – you won’t see the skyscrapers of Dubai here as all buildings are limited to four storeys. There are lots of excursions available from Dunes which take in some of the city’s best sights – you can meander through the nearby Matrah Souk or visit the city’s architectural gem – Sultan Qaboo’s Mosque. This mosque can accommodate over 7,000 worshippers inside it’s cool marble prayer rooms and at its heart it houses the most dazzling chandelier I have ever seen – all 8 tonnes of it.
I have travelled fairly extensively in the Middle East, but something about Oman really did capture my imagination. It offers so much to the traveller – world-class scenery, lots of cultural sights, and of course that wonderful Omani hospitality.
The Al Nahda Group too make the most of these elements, amplifying them in their hotels to give guests an authentic, but relaxing experience and surely fond memories of a holiday filled with adventure and discovery.
Travel Tips:
- 4 nights at Sahab and then three nights at Dunes, private transfers and return flights with Oman Air
- Cox & Kings (0203 642 0861, coxandkings.co.uk) offers 4 nights at Sahab Resort & Spa on a full board basis and 3 nights at Dunes by Al Nahda on a half board basis from £2,395 per person (two sharing) including all private transfers and return economy international flights with Oman Air.
- The currency is the Omani Rial – 2 rials is approximately £1
- The national language is Arabic – handy phrases include ‘Shukraan’ -thank you, ‘Salam Alaikum’ – hello or peace be with you to which the response is ‘Wa-Alaikum-Salaam’ – and peace with you also.
